Skin Lightening Treatment

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Water
69.60

Potassium sorbate
0.15

Sodium benzoate
0.15

Trisodium ethylenediamide disuccinate
0.05

Phase B

Ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate/VP copolymer
0.30

Phase C

Propanediol
1.50

Xanthan gum
0.25

Phase D

Cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside
2.20

Glyceryl stearate
1.25

Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate
2.20

Cetearyl alcohol
0.50

Neossance Squalane (Amyris, Inc./Centerchem)
7.00

Palmitoyl proline, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate
0.75

Phase E

Cyclopentasiloxane, C30-40 cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer,PEG/PPG-20/23 dimethicone
2.75

Diowgel 600 (Centerchem)
2.15

Isododecane
2.00

Phase F

Diocide (Centerchem)
1.00

PMMA 610 (Centerchem)
0.70

Apple Eco (Provital, S.A.Centerchem)
2.50

Melavoid (Provital, S.A.Centerchem)
3.00

Procedure

Combine phase A to main vessel with agitation. Sprinkle phase B into phase A while mixing. Allow to hydrate. Increase agitation as batch thickens. Mix until uniform. Premix phase C and add to main vessel with mixing. Begin heating batch to 80-85°C. In separate vessel, combine phase D with mixing. Heat to 80-85°C. When vessels have reached 80-85°C, add phase D to main vessel. Mix until uniform. Then begin cooling. Premix phase E. When main vessel reaches 70°C, add phase E with mixing. Mix until emulsified. Then cool to 40°C. When batch has cooled to 40°C, add phase F ingredients individually with mixing between additions. Mix until batch has cooled to room temperature.